Walking with Druids and Dalí on the Cap de Creus

An intricate exploration of Spain’s most easterly Mediterranean Cape and the charming city of Girona. Just a stones’ throw from the French border.

The Cap de Creus, situated in a far flung corner of the Iberian Peninsular (see Map below) is considered by many to be the Catalan “Finis Terrae”.

Rich with historical testaments, man has long left his trace on this landscape; from the Megalithic dolmens through to the magnificent Romanic monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes and beyond with the surreal structures of casa Dali.

The rugged terrain shows itself at first glance as being inhospitable to mankind. The people of the region traditionally lived off olives, vines, smallholdings, augmented by fishing and livestock such as goats and mules. Until the eighteenth century villages were situated inland on the high ground away from the sudden attach of Mediterranean corsairs.

With the advent of beach tourism some fifty years ago, the coastal villages boomed without the urban over expansion associated with much of the Costa Brava. The charming fishing villages of Port de la Selva and Cadaques attracted a bohemian set with Salvador Dali setting up his summer residence in Port Lligat.

Away from the summer hustle, the coast teems with shallow coves and pretty little beaches. Both the coastline and the hinterland have a fascinating variety of weathered geological strata which in turn provides may pockets filled with botanical wealth.

Day 1

Arrive Llanca

Day 2

The port of Llanca with its superb road and rail links is a natural choice to start and finish the tour of Cap de Creus. A short walk along the coast to Port de la Selva gives you a good choice of small beaches to dip your feet. The fish market is well worth a visit before choosing amongst the many eateries to sample some of the local fare.

• 2 hours 15 minutes. 7 kms. Flat. Easy.

Day 3

Our route cuts across land to the Cape’s easternmost village of Cadaques passing abandoned vine terraces built up from the local slate. Revel in the picturesque narrow streets with their fishbone cobbles.

• 3 hours 30 minutes. 11 kms. 320m combined climb. Easy – Moderate.

Day 4

The next day’s path passes some wonderfully secluded and unspoilt stretches of the coast up to the Cap de Creus lighthouse, the easternmost point of the Iberian Peninsula. The way cuts back west through some winding shallow valleys containing unexpected streams and lush woodland to Port de la Selva.

• 6 hours 30 minutes. 19 kms. 200m combined climb. Moderate.

Day 5

From Port de la Selva, the path starts its gradual climb to the highest point of the cape. Passing the La Val de Sane Creu, and unspoilt hamlet, the path climbs more steeply on a well defined path to the monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes. From here you continue up to the castle of San Salvador de Verdera where a mercenary garrison, paid for by the monastery was housed. The soldiers kept an eagle eye out for marauding pirates from this privileged viewpoints. The all round views are simply stunning.

It is comforting to know that the remainder of the day is all downhill past several dolmens through patches of cork oak woodland. The village of Palau-saverdera nestles into the hillside looking south over the Emporda and the Aiguamolls wetlands.

• 4 hours 45 minutes. 12 kms. 680m combined climb. Moderate.

Day 6

The path to Llanca climbs through attractive scrub land, surrounded by worked and abandoned olive groves and vineyards. Soon the hermitage of San Onofre is reached with its welcome spring. Superb views south over the Bay of Roses start to open up and climbing eases before cresting the central ridge of the Cap de Creus for the last time. The descent into Llanca again passes dolmens and vestiges of former cultivated land. The views open to the north along the tortured coastline into France as well as east over the previous day’s terrain.

• 3 hours 20 minutes. 8 kms. 450m combined climb. Moderate.

Day 7

Transfer and overnight in Girona City.

A mix of small friendly 1-3* hotels with some outstanding cuisine. We have even teamed up with a 1* Michelin restaurant on the first and last night of your walk giving you a chance to sample the best creative cooking in the area.